This is the Charm Patterns Maria dress which is a princess seam dress that makes a great base for many styles. The lines are clean. It’s straightforward and nice for a beginner to learn princess seams, but a satisfying sew for a more experienced sewist.
So why do I also call it the Friendship Dress? This pattern was under development and about to be released when I attended my first Charm Patterns retreat in 2023. We got a sneak peak of it, and Gertie wore a sample in a lovely floral print by Anna Maria called Social Climber from her Love Always print line (you can see it in pink in the Maria Dress tutorial video). We were all so excited about this pattern, that most of us at the retreat decided to buy the same print in different colorways and make matching ones, dubbing it a symbol of our new found friendship. At this point, I think maybe half of us have gotten to it? I actually made mine pretty soon after it was released, but I’m only just now getting around to posting (as is usual for me :P).
I didn’t love any of the colorways. In fact, I really liked one of the colorways from the previous print of this fabric that was purple and teal, but unfortunately it was nowhere to be found on the internet. So I decided to make it myself by overdyeing.
Overdyeing is when you dye a fabric that already has some color in it, whether it’s a pre-dyed piece of fabric or a print like this one. I bought the Lichen colorway which was something of a gray background with green-teal flowers on it. Then I picked up some purple RIT dye and followed the directions.
Overall, it turned out pretty well! There were definitely some places where the dye took better than others despite frequent stirring and some spots where it clearly must have gotten folded on itself or something leaving light spots. I had bought extra yardage just in case since I knew I’d be doing pattern placement with the flowers so I was able to get enough fabric that was relatively close in hue. I actually found that I liked the more homogenous light variation from the dye and layered over the gray background, it resulted in a sort of weathered, antique look. But in general, I really liked the final result with the new dusty purple background and was so glad I decided to a) try a new skill of overdyeing and b) follow my instinct for what I wanted.
If you’d like to watch a video of the overdyeing process, you can check out the reel I posted on Instagram.
Also, I found I was able to use some of the more splotchy parts for the unseen parts like the pocket bags and the facings. I didn’t need to worry about pattern placement for those so I could just squeeze them in wherever I could find space on the fabric.
With respect to the dress itself, I made a size 4 at the shoulders/bust, graded to a 6 at the waist and hips with the bodice shortened 3/4″ below the bust and a 3/8″ swayback adjustment. This is my standard adjustment for Charm Patterns so no surprise there. I made a muslin just in case (look at those fabulous colors), mostly because I wanted to test the arms. I was fairly certain the rest would work and it did.
I tried a muslin of the 3/4 sleeve (forgot to take a photo), but I just felt so constricted in it while at the same time it felt frumpy since there was enough ease that I could move a bit. I was debating going sleeveless (the dress is quite cute sleeveless and I will be making a version like that), but then figured I might as well try the short sleeve and I really liked both the feel and look of it. Although I will admit, even the short sleeves are a little more restrictive than I generally like, but it’s cute so I deal with it and just don’t wear it to events where I need to be waving my hands in the air.
Cutting the actual bodice pieces was a bit tedious because I was being particular about the pattern placement. But it paid off. The roses go nicely across my chest and I was able to use all pieces that were essentially the same hue for the background. But it did require cutting out the middle and then each pair of pieces out to the back center to ensure the pattern stayed consistently placed.
I don’t know that there’s a lot to say about the construction of the dress otherwise. The instructions are good and clear. It is the usual high quality I expect from Charm Patterns. There is a tutorial video. It’s solid.
Above is an image of basting the pleats down by machine. The pleated nature of the skirt gives nice body but without bulk at the waist and still allows for the use of fabric with an obvious directional print (like rows of roses).
The only place I deviated slightly from the pattern was the zipper. Like most Charm Patterns, the instructions suggest using a lapped zipper. They’re nice. At this point they’re easy. But I still really love the clean look of an invisible zipper. So that’s what I did. And look how nice it meets up at the waist seam. Quite happy with that installation. An invisible zipper foot really makes these a cake walk which for something so professional looking feels like cheating. But I’ll take it.
For the belt buckle, I was originally going to with a lucite one I had picked up in NYC after the retreat, but then I found this antique brass and I felt it really just went better with the weathered, antique look I mentioned before. The picture above also shows the Charm Patterns Hattie Tote. That’ll be the next post.
And here’s a shot from the back. It was actually quite windy at the winery where were taking the photos. But it poofed my skirt out and made for some nice images so I’m not mad.
Overall, so pleased with how the dress came out in terms of fit and color. It seems like the perfect dress to wear out to tea, romantically vintage. And because of the overdyeing, I know that I truly have a one-of-a-kind piece.
I ended up having so much extra fabric that I was able to make a matching Hattie Bag (mentioned above). There’s actually still quite a bit left and I was so happy with how the final print turned out that I’m saving it to hopefully make a scrappy quilt with it. We’ll see. Gotta find the time.
beautiful dress!
Thank you! 🙂 I’ve gotten to wear it many places already!